Most people know Kalbarri for its coastal cliffs, but Murchison River Gorge inside Kalbarri National Park is the real showstopper inland. This 80km canyon carved by the river reveals layers of geology and rock formations that have been standing long before the first roo bounded across the plains. I’m Paul Beames, and for me, Murchison Gorge is the kind of place that makes you slow down, swat a mozzie or two, and take in a landscape that hasn’t changed much in millions of years.
Where to Find the Famous River Gorges
Murchison Gorge runs through the inland heart of Kalbarri National Park, about 6 hours north of Perth. The gorge snakes through the red rock of WA’s Midwest, between lookouts, walking trails and the Kalbarri National Park entrance off Ajana-Kalbarri Road.
Key access roads:
- Ross Graham Road – to the Ross Graham Lookout and river access.
- Hawkes Head Road – sealed, easy access to Hawks Head lookouts.
Car parks are at each major lookout and trailhead, but can fill up during peak season.
Many people include Murchison Gorge in a Coral Coast itinerary that also takes in Shark Bay and Monkey Mia – in fact, if you join a 4 Day Monkey Mia Tour from Perth, you’ll often stop in at Kalbarri National Park to see the gorge along the way.
Geology And Time Travel
Think of the gorge as an open-air textbook of WA’s past. The walls are stacked with geology from the Devonian period, around 400 million years old. Fossilised trackways of ancient creatures can be seen in the rock formations along the Murchison River Gorge Walk.
The gorge has been shaped by millions of years of geological activity and whitewater rivers cutting through softer layers of sandstone. Look closely and you’ll see iron-rich reds, purple streaks, and rippling textures that speak of ancient seas and shifting continents.
Best Lookouts To Soak It In
Every lookout has a different story of the gorge. Some are short strolls from a sealed path and car park, others require a bit of sweat.
- Nature’s Window – A natural sandstone arch, perfect for framing the river below. Popular and close to the car park, so get in early.
- Z-Bend Gorge – Famous for its sharp curve and dramatic cliffs. Accessible via the Z-Bend trail, with both an easy lookout and a tougher gorge descent.
- Ross Graham Lookout – One of the easiest spots to reach the water, lined with paperbark and tea trees along the river edge.
- Hawks Head – Easily reached off Hawkes Head Road, with safe, family-friendly lookout points.
- Skywalk – Two new platforms stretching out 25 metres above the gorge rim.
At some points, you can even spot rapids like the Hardibut Rapids, which add extra drama when the river’s in flow.
Hiking Trails That Show Off The Gorge
Walking the gorge lets you step right into its deep time. Trails range from family-friendly strolls to boulder-strewn treks.
- The Loop Trail (8 km) – Circles around Nature’s Window, plunges down into the gorge. The track is exposed, rocky and can be rough as guts in summer.
- Z-Bend River Trail (2.6 km return) – A mix of ladders, scrambling and a boulder-strewn track that leads to river pools.
- Murchison River Gorge Walks – Multi-day treks for the hardcore, link sections of the gorge and feature spots like Serpent’s Tail and Mentox Rapid.
- Ross Graham Walk (700 m) – Gentle sealed path from the car park to the riverbank, shaded by paperbark and tea trees.
Paul’s tip: Always check the Weather Forecast and Fire Danger rating before heading out. The gorge can close during high fire risk days.
Wildlife You’ll Meet Along The Track
It’s not just about rocks and rivers — the gorge is alive with critters. You’ll see:
- Kangaroos and emus roam the plains.
- Wedge-tailed eagles soaring above lookout points.
- Goannas basking in the sun on warm sandstone.
- Waterbirds around the river pools, sometimes in stagnant water.
The wildlife population here ebbs and flows with the seasons, and spring adds carpets of wildflowers to the mix.
Camping And Accommodation
No camping in the gorge itself, but nearby options:
- Kalbarri town: Caravan parks, motels, lodges with bakeries and a cold tinnie after a long hike.
- Kalbarri National Park campgrounds: Basic sites like Bigurda, dunnies and not much else. Swag it under the stars.
- Mount View Station (nearby) – A working station offering bush camping, outback life.
Practical Tips for a Safe Day in the Gorges
This is rugged country, plan ahead:
- Heat: Summer temps over 40°C. Carry at least 3 litres of water per person.
- Rapids: Murchison has grade 1/2 white water, grade 2 rapids and grade 3/4 rapids like Serpent’s Tail and Mentox rapid. Not always safe to swim.
- Cliffs: Unfenced drop-offs. Stay back from the edges at lookout points.
- Snakes: Common in warmer months. Wear boots and stick to the path.
Seasons And Best Time To Visit
- April to October (best): Cooler, safer for walking. Wildlife spotting.
- Summer (Nov–March): Brutally hot. Trails may shut by 7 am.
- Spring (Sept–Oct): Wildflowers explode. The gorge comes alive.
Water levels vary – after rain, you’ll see rapids, in the dry patches of green and stagnant water.
Practical Travel Tips From The Road
- Fuel: Last top-up in Kalbarri before you head in.
- Maps: No reception. Download offline maps.
- Entry: $15 per car or WA Parks Pass.
- Shoes: Z-Bend requires decent boots. Thongs won’t cut it.
- Safety: Always check the Weather Forecast and Fire Danger.
Paul’s yarn: I once saw a bloke do the Loop Trail in midday heat with only a can of soft drink. He lasted less than a kilometre before giving up. Don’t be that bloke.
FAQ
Can you kayak the Murchison River Gorge?
Yes, but conditions vary. Some parts are grade 1/2 white water, others, like Serpent’s Tail, require serious skill.
Where is the easiest access to the river?
Ross Graham Lookout off Ross Graham Road has the most family-friendly river access, shaded by paperbark and tea trees.
Is Nature’s Window suitable for kids?
Yes, only 800m from the car park along a sealed path. Just watch the cliff edges.
How long should I plan for Murchison River Gorge Walks?
Day trips for shorter trails; multi-day if linking sections of the gorge like Z-Bend to The Loop. Always carry enough water.
What’s the biggest risk?
Heat and dehydration. The gorge’s geological features are stunning but exposed — plan around the conditions.
