The title “Murchison River” sets the scene perfectly; the body of this Western Australian water has been a staple of countless road trips I’ve led up and down the Coral Coast over the years. Im Paul Beames and the Murchison is one of those rivers that looks deceptively calm from a lookout but has got a whole lot of stories hiding beneath the surface — from the early European explorers who helpfully stumbled around in places they really shouldn’t have, to families having the time of their lives splashing about at Ross Graham Lookout while a goanna quietly keeps an eye on their lunch. Plenty of travellers come here after that 4 Day Monkey Mia Tour from Perth, and they quickly learn the Murchison is more memorable than just those dolphins further north.
If you are planning a wander around Kalbarri, this river is basically your route anchor, whether you’ve noticed it yet or not. It gives rise to swimming holes and bush camps, gorge paddling routes, and all the yarns you take home. So let’s get cracking on the history, the adventure, and the realities — heat, storms and all the lot.
European Discovery: The First Recorded Sightings
Walking along those limestone cliffs today? You can hardly imagine the confusion early Europeans must have felt trying to get a handle on this coastline without any of the modern gadgets like GPS or a decent map, let alone even a reliable old billy to boil a cuppa. The Murchison River was first spotted by Europeans way back in the early 17th century – Dutch navigators had charted bits of the WA coastline but didn’t venture much inland. It was 1839 before George Grey’s overland expedition finally got the river’s route down on paper — and let me tell you, by all accounts, that journey was a bit of a nightmare – more like trying to navigate a wet-season track in the Pilbara than an easy day out.
Grey & his team got battered by storms, got stuck, & had to practically crawl along the coast. Their notes did, however, finally put the Murchison on European maps.
How The Region Got Its Name
The river was named after Sir Roderick Murchison, a well-known Scottish geologist and president of the Royal Geographical Society. Back in those days, naming rights usually went to whoever had the most clout, not the bloke trudging through spinifex with sand in their boots. But still, the name stuck. Now it’s one of WA’s longest river systems – known for gorges and birdlife, and that odd time when the water actually flows after a big rain.
Where The River Begins
The Murchison River stretches for around 780 kilometres, making it one of Western Australia’s longest rivers. It starts in the Robinson Ranges in the mid-west of the state, & winds its way through the pastoral country before slicing through Kalbarri National Park and emptying into the Indian Ocean.
For most of the time, the upper reaches are bone dry – like a Weet-Bix left out in the sun, but when the inland storms roll in, the river can get flowing real quick. If you’re heading north in the March to April period, you can expect the river to be swollen from the summer monsoonal rain, which has come from the Northern Territory or Queensland. You really appreciate this when you look out from the Kalbarri Skywalk, where you can see just how massive the gorge is and appreciate the journey this water has been on.
Here’s a snapshot of the river’s structure:
| Segment | Key Features | Seasonal Notes |
|---|---|---|
| Upper Murchison | Dry riverbeds, cattle stations | Flash flooding after summer rain |
| Middle Murchison | Wide sandy sections, claypans | Unpredictable water levels |
| Kalbarri Gorges | Steep sandstone walls, swimming holes | Heat risk Oct–Mar |
| River Mouth | Chinaman’s Beach, boating | Strong winds in peak summer |
Swimming And Relaxing At Ross Graham Lookout
Ross Graham Lookout is just about the easiest place to get into the gorge, perfect if you’re on holiday with the family and don’t want to spend all day trekking through the scrub. You can just wander down from the car park and straight into the river.
The water’s usually pretty calm here, and in the late afternoon, the gorge walls get this amazing reddish glow. I once watched a family trying to get their inflatable flamingo to go back upstream against a slow current – let’s just say the flamingo won the day. If you’ve got reef shoes, bring ’em: the rocks can be pretty rough to walk on.
Local tips:
- Pack a towel for winter – the water can get pretty chilly.
- Don’t bother trying to swim during the middle of the day in summer – it’s scorching hot with limited shade.
- Keep your eyes peeled for euro kangaroos and goannas hanging around the picnic areas.
A Family-Friendly Spot That Actually Works
Down by the river mouth is Chinaman’s Beach, and it’s honestly one of the best places in the region to spend a whole day swimming, building sandcastles and having a lazy picnic without anyone getting bored. Loads of people head down here straight after visiting Nature’s Window, and then pop in for a swim to cool off after tackling those famous stairs up in the gorge.
Don’t be surprised if you see tinnies floating past from the boat ramp with some hopeful fisherman claiming, ‘This is the day I catch one!’ Spoiler: sometimes it actually is.
Kayaking And Canoeing: Paddling Through the Gorge
If you’ve got any sort of upper body strength or are just a bit stubborn (like me!), then kayaking through the Murchison Gorge is a great way to see the sandstone cliffs from an entirely new perspective. And trust me, the reflections at sunrise make the river look like polished glass.
You can hire a kayak in Kalbarri or join a guided tour, such as Pinnacles Tours, which often includes a scenic paddle as part of its itinerary. Bear in mind that the paddle distance can vary depending on the water level – in dry years, you might be dragging your kayak across sandbars.
Paddling checklist:
- Two litres of water per person, minimum
- Wide-brim hat (trust me, that sun bites)
- Dry bag for phone and keys
- Early start to dodge the heat
Fishing Along The River
For anglers, the Murchison is a bit of a mixed bag – you’ve got estuary species near the mouth, and freshwater contenders further upstream. You’ll also hear a lot of stories about “the one that got away.”
At the river mouth you’ll find:
- Bream
- Whiting
- Tailor (season dependent)
- Mulloway, if the fishing gods are smiling on you
Further inland, the fish stocks are a bit of a gamble, depending on the rain and flow levels. A wet summer means the river’s in great nick; a dry one and you might be better off grabbing fish and chips from the local shop.
Boat Cruises: Scenic River Tours
If paddling’s not your thing and you’d rather just sit back with a camera for someone else to do all the work, then the Kalbarri river cruises are genuinely worth checking out. They chug along the lower Murchison, pointing out the local birdlife, some fascinating rock formations and the sort of weird and wonderful local anecdotes that only come from spending decades living near a river that does its own thing. The cruises give you really great vantage points into Murchison Gorge – especially at golden hour.
You can expect to spot some osprey nests, kangaroos starting to stir as dusk falls, and cliff faces that change colour every time the sun moves.
Sandboarding And 4WD Adventures Along The River
Between the river mouth and the coastal cliffs, dunes stack up along the river corridor like giant sand dunes. Near the river mouth, the hills get stacked up like giant sand dunes along the river corridor. If you’re into sandboarding, then the slopes down near the river mouth are a great way to burn off some energy before a dip in the water.
4WD tracks wind their way along bits of the river, but be prepared for the weather to change on you fast – a storm, tide change or gust of wind can turn what is an easy run into something a lot rougher – enough to knock your snorkelling gear off the ute. Always check the local conditions, especially during the heat of summer or after a big downpour.
Wildlife Along The River
This river corridor is teeming with wildlife – you just need to slow down and actually look. I’ve seen some real treats on a single morning:
- Red kangaroos grazing away down in the gullies
- Emus marching along dusty trails like they own the place
- Ospreys and black kites are circling overhead like they’re surveying their kingdom
- Goannas sauntering around the picnic spots like they own the joint
- Pelicans cruising the river mouth like they’re on some sort of fishing expedition
Snakes, yeah, they’re around. Just keep a safe distance and remember to stick to the tracks – no poking at any snakes you might find wandering about.
Accommodation: Where Travellers Bed Down
Kalbarri and the surrounds have all sorts of accommodation options – from decent powered sites to comfy homestead stays. Some of the choices include:
- Camping at Murchison House Station – because why not?
- Riverside holiday parks where you can wake up to the sound of the river
- Off-road caravan areas
- Homestead Campground setups – where you can live it up in style
- Traditional motels in town if you just want a comfy night’s sleep
If you’re really after an Outback experience, then some people go all out and bring along Murchison River Swags – proper canvas swags that’ll withstand the harsh conditions up in WA.
Heat, Storms, And Seasonal Realities You Need To Know
The Murchison is straight up brutal:
- Summer: It’s hot, windy and rough as guts – temps can easily hit the 40s
- Cyclones: We get a fair bit of rain from their remnants, and if it’s really heavy, it can quickly surge downriver.
- Winter: This is the prime time for hiking and gorge walking.
- Spring: get ready for an explosion of wildflowers from the Gascoyne River right up to Kalbarri when we get some decent rain.
Just make sure to keep up to date with what’s happening through GWN7 News, The Guardian and Parks WA. These blokes only shut you out at the drop of a hat.
Experience the Murchison with the Pros
The Murchison is massive, and trying to tackle the gorges and lookouts on your own can be a bit of a mission. If you’d rather swap the stressful driving for a front-row seat and a cold drink, we’ve got a few ways to show you the best of it:
- 6-Day Ningaloo Whale Shark Adventure: The quickest way to hit the river highlights before heading up for a swim with the big fish.
- 7-Day Perth to Exmouth Return: Our most popular loop that gives you plenty of time to explore the Murchison’s hidden bends.
- 8-Day West Coast Expedition: The ultimate slow-burn journey for those who don’t want to miss a single photo op between Perth and Exmouth.
FAQ
Can I swim safely in the Murchison River?
You can – places like Ross Graham Lookout and Chinaman’s Beach are definitely worth a dip. But remember to always check in with the Kalbarri Rangers for the low down.
Is the river always flowing?
Nope. Up in the upper Murchison its pretty dry most of the time, but Kalbarri Gorges generally still have some water in the pools.
Is the Area sensitive to visitors?
Yeah, the Murchison is pretty important culturally and ecologically, so make sure to follow Leave No Trace Australia.
Do I need a 4WD to get to the really remote bits?
If you’re heading to Milly Milly Crossing or station bush camping, yeah – you definitely need to have a fair bit of clearance and a 4WD.
Are there any guided activities available?
Yeah – there are heaps of options: boat cruises, kayak trips and Kalbarri Canoe Safaris often run regularly.
